Okay, it’s time for the full report.
Day 1
We arrived on Wednesday and picked up our first po-boys on the way home from the airport from a local joint out in Lakeview, where we were staying. Ah . . . welcome to New Orleans. After lunch, we followed up with a stroll around the French Quarter. “Food” stop number one was a hurricane, which we purchased on Bourbon Street. Now, for those of you who are not aware, New Orleans is the home to one of my favorite phenomena, the “to-go” cup at bars. Yes, my friends, you can walk into a bar and order a drink to go. We got our hurricanes and continued our stroll around the Quarter. At one point we stumbled upon a gospel choir — between that and the booze in the hurricanes, our spirits were soaring. We rounded off our stroll with a stop at Cafe du Monde for coffee and beignets, which we enjoyed by the riverside. Dinner that night was at Lola’s, where we had some good paella and warm dinner rolls with fantastic garlic butter — mostly garlic. Later that night, we got rocking at the House of Blues with George Clinton and P-Funk. The 60+ year old grandfather out-rocked us that night; we had to turn in at about 2:30 AM.
Day 2
Our first day at Jazz Fest. Our first stop was food — Danielle and Seth headed for the crawfish bread, and I for my soft-shell crab po-boy. Just as delightful as I had remembered — salty, crispy, and briny. Other delicacies of the day included the Nachitoches meat pie (a spicy ground beef concoction wrapped in dough and then deep-fried), a BBQ oyster po-boy, fried plaintains with tangy Jamaican hot sauce, a taste of Danielle’s bread pudding, and, of course, the rosemint tea. We met up with my friend Arielle’s brother David — my prior trips to New Orleans were all with Arielle, and David stepped in on hosting duties during her absence, making sure we had a good spot from which to enjoy the music, and that we always had a cold beer. We were able to catch two acts that afternoon: Allen Toussaint and the Steve Miller Band. Although there were sprinkles throughout the day, it never really rained that hard, and we even saw a rainbow. After heading home, we decided to take a nap before we went out for the evening. When we woke up, it was already 11:45 p.m. So much for going out. We ended up sleeping until about 10 the next morning. Guess we were wiped out.
Day 3
During our 14 hour “nap,” there were constant bursts of thunder and lightning, and torrential rains. Conditions were so bad that Jazz Fest got rained out for the first time in ages — perhaps over a decade. We decided to make the best of it, so we ultimately headed down to Bourbon Street to start drinking. We started at Pat O’Brien’s — I had a hurricane and Seth started with a bloody mary. He would later graduate to a mint julep, while I continued to nurse my hurricane (give me a little credit — it was easily twice the size of his bloody mary). On a side note, while we wandered around the Quarter our first day, we had set out some “goals” for our trip — little things we were going to try to accomplish while we were there. They included shaking hands with a famous person, singing into a microphone, riding on the back of a motorcycle, getting a business card from a stranger, and eating a food we had never eaten before. Our first day at the Fest we were each able to eat something we had not eaten before, and at Pat O’Brien’s, we got word that there was a famous person at the bar inside — Yanni. After much debate about whether (a) Yanni actually counted as a famous person and (b) the person sitting at the bar was, in fact, Yanni, we decided to pass on that particular opportunity, even if one of our goals was left unaccomplished. Later in the day, we ran into my friend Erika and her posse at the House of Blues. We were walking by to check out what was playing later that night. We all retreated to a bar offering 3 for 1 drinks to decide on our musical plans for the evening. We made the mistake of ordering white russians as our drink of choice — they were each the size of my head (I think they combined the three drinks into one huge cup). Now I know why white russians are usually served in a very small glass. Ugh — way too much milk. Determined not to sleep through another evening despite having spent our entire day getting boozed up, we went home, quickly showered, and headed out to Mid-City Lanes Rock ‘n Bowl to see the Rebirth Brass Band and Kermit Ruffins, both New Orleans institutions. It was a fantastic show, but incredibly crowded, even for little miss New York City. At sometime during the second set, we called it a night — we needed to be well-rested for our next day at Jazz Fest.
Day 4
To make up for our rained-out day, we got up early so we could put in a full day at the Fest. We certainly got started with some good karma — someone gave me a free ticket as I was walking up to buy one. In typical New York fashion, I asked Seth if we should check to make sure it was valid. He looked at me as if I were insane. Maybe it’s time for me to leave the city for a while . . . Anyway, back to Jazz Fest. We started off (after a round of beignets, of course) at the Blues tent, where we saw God’s Followers of South Africa, who are reminiscent of Ladysmith Black Mombazo. We then went to one of the main stages, where we wanted to set up camp for later shows. While we were there, we saw Marc Broussard, who was unknown to either of us, but was definitely the hidden gem of the day. He couldn’t have been more than 20, but his voice had a depth and maturity way beyond his years. We predict big things for this guy in the near future. Leaving our chairs to mark our turf, we went over to the Congo tent, where, despite the geographical inconsistency, they were focusing on music from South Africa. We saw Busi Mhlongo and Vusi Mahlasela, who were joined by the legendary Hugh Masekela. While we were at the Congo tent, we guided Arielle’s friend Bebe (who I’ve seen on all of my previous New Orleans trips) to our stuff, and met up with her after we had both returned from our ventures to the smaller tents. Thank god for cell phones. We picked up some food on the way back — a chicken taco for me, and a steak pita for Seth. And, of course, more rosemint tea. Back at the main stage, we caught the end of the Funky Meters, and ran off to grab a catfish po-boy before Santana got started. As we were winding our way back through the crowds, we heard Santana off in the distance — they had started early! We made it back to our chairs, and were treated to some of the best guitar playing in the world. Incredible. Towards the end of the set, we could see the black storm clouds moving closer and closer. We only missed a few songs, but made it back home before the rain came crashing down again. We planned to take a nap (not a 14-hour one, but a short one), but were sidetracked by the National Spelling Bee, which was being broadcast on ESPN2. Strangely enough, we had been talking about Spellbound the day before. The winning word was pococurante. After the Bee, we geared up for our night with Jurassic 5 and Galactic. Although the show was good, it made me think that I might finally be turning into an old woman. It was unbearably loud — so much so that I wished I had brought earplugs. After several hours of having our eardrums blasted into oblivion, we headed to the Clover Grill for some late night burgers. Gotta love a place that cooks their burgers under hubcaps. Satiated, we returned home.
Day 5
After two days fighting crowds at Jazz Fest with a day boozing in the French Quarter in between, we opted to take our Sunday at a slightly more subdued pace. We started off with brunch at Lulu’s in the Garden. Not wanting to go into shock from lack of fried food and shellfish, I ordered a dish called the “Hangtown Fry,” scrambled eggs with bacon, fried oysters, and fried onion rings. Delicious. Not light, but fantastic. The best quality of well-done fried food is that it isn’t at all greasy, which surprises me every time. We were able to walk off some of the brunch with a do-it-ourselves Garden District walking tour. We purchased a great guide book, we were off. After our tour, we returned back to the Quarter for one last drink in to-go cup. After taking in a few more sights, sounds, and smells, we opted to finish off our weekend with a quiet, lovely dinner at Cafe Degas, outside of the Quarter. For whatever reason, we were both craving beef, so we each had a steak. A simple, yet tasty finish to our culinary adventures.
Day 6
We awoke at the crack of dawn and headed home. People were still out partying as our cab drove off to the airport. Thanks to Seth for being an ideal travel partner, to Danielle, Alan and Ela for letting us stay with them, despite our keeping odd hours and sleeping half the time, and to David and Bebe for chipping in on hosting duties at the Fest. You can see the pictures here.
Comments
14 responses
Sounds wicked and I like the thought of the ‘Hangtown Fry!
Sounds wicked and I like the thought of the ‘Hangtown Fry!
Welcome back – glad to hear you enjoyed yourself. Are you ready to hit the gym to work off all that New Orleans grub?
Welcome back – glad to hear you enjoyed yourself. Are you ready to hit the gym to work off all that New Orleans grub?
Believe it or not, I lost a few pounds while I was there!
Believe it or not, I lost a few pounds while I was there!
Congratulations! So, who was your favourite act?
Congratulations! So, who was your favourite act?
I’m going to have to go with George Clinton and P-Funk. And he’s coming to NYC at the end of June — hooray!
I’m going to have to go with George Clinton and P-Funk. And he’s coming to NYC at the end of June — hooray!
George Clinton and P-Funk… that would be an excellent gig! Have a video of him performing with the Red Hot Chili Peppers in Germany in 1985 (or 1986).
George Clinton and P-Funk… that would be an excellent gig! Have a video of him performing with the Red Hot Chili Peppers in Germany in 1985 (or 1986).
And this is why I love my hometown.
And this is why I love my hometown.